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Problem Skin and Acne

Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S.
CIDESCO Diplomate

Millions of people are afflicted by acne-prone skin. This problem affects people of all ages, races, and both genders.

The tendency to develop acne and related blemishes is hereditary. People who suffer from acne-prone skin inherit 2 major factors: the tendency to retain cells (cell buildup) known medically as retention hyperkeratosis, and overactive sebaceous oil glands in the skin. As cells buildup in the skin, they are coated by oil (sebum) secreted by the overactive glands. This causes a type of “sludge” which blocks pores (follicles), cutting off oxygen from the bottom of the follicle.

Acne bacteria (propionibacterium acnes) are anaerobic, which means they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. Even though these bacteria exist normally in every pore on every person, acne does not manifest itself in most people because oxygen is penetrating the follicle, keeping bacterial growth in check. When a blockage occurs in the follicle however, this oxygen cannot penetrate as easily, and sets the stage for development of acne blemishes.

Acne bacteria feed off fatty acids that they process from the abundance of sebaceous oil secreted by the oil glands. This causes more inflammation, resulting in swelling that further blocks the follicle.

Hormones, hormones, hormones

The signal that triggers oil production is sent by hormones called androgens. These are male hormones, but are present in both men and women.

Androgens are what cause pores to enlarge and acne problems to start at puberty. They also cause women to sometimes develop acne problems and hair growth at menopause, and especially those pesky pre-menstrual breakouts!

These premenstrual flares are theorized to be caused by sudden surges of oil triggered by androgens in the bloodstream. These surges inflame the follicles causing sudden acne flares, most often in the chin and jaw line areas.

In chronic cases, these flares can be managed with hormonal therapy from a gynecologist or an endocrinologist (hormone specialist physician).

Picking at acne

Some people chronically pick at their pimples, resulting in scrapes and sometimes scars. The medical term for this is acne excoriee’. Hyperpigmentation (dark splotching) can also result from this, because of injuries to the lower skin (the dermis) causing the skin to produce skin pigment as a defense mechanism. This is particular true in darker skin types. People also try to treat the splotching, ignoring the acne which is actually the cause!

Removing plugs (blackheads and whiteheads) is actually a good idea, but should be performed by a competent esthetician or other skin care professional who has been trained in the proper methods.

Control Methods

Although there is still no real cure for acne, acne-prone skin can be managed by controlling cell buildup and managing the oil secreted by the glands. Because this is a never-ending cycle, people with acne-prone skin must be forever vigilant in controlling the buildup that begins the development of blemishes. The beginning of this process in the follicle results in the formation of a microcomedo, a small “sludge” within the follicle that cannot be seen by the person. It is only in the later stages does this “sludge” result in a blackhead (open comedo), whitehead (closed comedo) or a pimple. The trick in managing acne-prone skin is the squelching of the development of the microcomedo!

Ingredients and Products that help squelch acne

Alphahydroxy acids (AHA’s), including the well known glycolic acid, essentially work by causing the inside of the follicle to slough dead cell buildup. Mark Lees Alphaplex contains a combination of alphahydroxy acids, along with salicylic acid. Alphaplex helps to loosen debris in the follicle and helps keep more buildup from reoccurring. Alphaplex is helpful in controlling cell buildup in the follicles with much less irritation than with many prescription acne medications. It is particularly helpful for adult acne-prone skin. This type of skin does not suffer from widespread acne, but rather frequent individual blemishes and the tendency to oiliness and clogged pores. Alphaplex should be used daily or twice daily. Warning: Alphahydroxy acids should not be used with other peeling agents, including prescription topicals, unless approved by your dermatologist.

Stronger agents may be needed for individual blemishes. We recommend Concept:Clean Dermashake, a special suspension designed for drying and clearing individual blemishes.

Oil Control

Effective rinse-off foaming cleansers help control oiliness. Concept: Clean Super Cleanse Wash should be used twice daily on very oily skin. Concept:Clean Daily Scrub is an alternative cleanser that also contains micro beads to help with very oily, rough-textured skin. Removing oil from problem skin removes a source of food for acne bacteria, helping to prevent inflammation.
Cleansing should be followed by the application of Exfolitone, which contains both salicylic acid and chamomile extract. This helps to further remove excess oils without over-drying the skin.

Watch the moisturizers and anti-agers!

As many people get older, they produce less oil. Why is this a problem for acne-prone skin? Many, many moisturizers utilizing some of the wonderful new “anti-aging” ingredients are designed with the less-oily skin in mind. They often contain oils and emollient ingredients that may be helpful to the dry maturing skin, but these oils and emollients can often add to the problems for the oily, acne-prone maturing skin!
Many products in the Mark Lees Moisture Support System range of products are designed for acne-prone and clogged pore-prone persons concerned about aging. Moisture Support products contain many state of the art ingredients to fight aging symptoms, without the clogging fats that can be present in many other product lines.

Don’t forget that the best defense against aging is the daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF-15+ sunscreen. Mark Lees Strataguard is both a day hydrator and SPF15 Sunscreen, and designed for acne-prone skin!

One bad apple…

Unfortunately when dealing with acne-prone skin, one product that contains inflaming or clogging emollients can often spoil the whole routine. Besides watching anything in a moisturizing base (including sunscreens, hydrators, and even AHA products!), be very careful not to spoil a good skin care program with makeup that is oily or irritating! Foundations should be checked to make sure they are for problem-prone skin. “Oil-free” does not necessarily mean that the foundation is free of all emollients that can cause or aggravate flares! Check to see if the makeup has been tested for comedogenicity!

Blushes and powders can even be a problem! Again, estheticians that are trained in acne-prone cosmetics can help choose the proper products.

The Mark Lees Makeup Collection is a scientifically designed and tested line of foundations, powder, and blushes, just right for acne-prone or clog-prone skin!

Myths abound…

There is no scientific evidence that any food causes breakout tendencies, except in the case of rosacea, which is not the type of acne being discussed here.
Chocolate, erroneously blamed for years for acne flares, has actually been proven not to inflame acne! You are more likely to get a zit from worrying about eating chocolate than you are from eating it!

Many women avoid dairy products, again from erroneous information. There is no evidence that milk or milk products cause or worsen acne!

Professional help

Regular facials can help acne-prone and oily skin, but only if they are performed by competent, well-trained estheticians. Not all facials are great for acne. Many “anti-aging” facial treatments may be loaded with oils or irritants that can aggravate a flare! Shop around and find an esthetician that is thoroughly trained in problem skin. Ask friends who you know have had acne problems. Asking friends with perfect skin may not direct you to someone who is competently trained in problem skin management.

It is also perfectly acceptable to have a consultation with an esthetician before starting a treatment program. The only thing you have to lose is the consultation fee. Ask about the esthetician’s training, and make sure you feel comfortable with his/her assessment of your particular skin problems.
One of the most important things a well-trained esthetician can do for you is help you choose the right products for your skin. What you are wearing on your skin and treating your skin with 24 hours a day is more important than a great facial!

Summary

Exfoliation, drying, and cleansing help to break loose existing comedones, clogged pores, and hyperkeratinized corneum cells. By removing and preventing the buildup of dead cells, the follicles become and remain clearer, which helps keep oxygen freely flowing through the follicles, preventing bacterial reproduction.

Elimination of the use of comedogenic (pore-clogging) cosmetics is imperative to help the problem skin client. Many fats used in cosmetics, particularly moisturizers and treatment products, foundations, powder, and blush, help to contribute to the pore-clogging process. The MARK LEES SYSTEM is manufactured without the use of these types of fats, and then is independently tested for comedogenicity.

CONCEPT:CLEAN products were developed by Dr. Lees to help the skin of clients with oily and problem skin. The CONCEPT:CLEAN line was added to the existing MARK LEES SKIN CARE SYSTEM, as special “power tools” for extra oily and problem skin. These products are designed to be simple, effective, and affordable, making them an excellent line for teenage oily-problem skin. CONCEPT:CLEAN products can easily be integrated into the MARK LEES signature line.

CONCEPT:CLEAN products are designed with the 3 needs of extra oily skin in mind:

(1) Cleansing - Extra oily skin must be thoroughly cleansed, helping to reduce accumulations of excess oil and impurities.

(2) Drying - Oily skin needs drying agents to help reduce oiliness and surface sebaceous materials that can clog pores.

(3) Exfoliating - Removing excess dead cell buildup that can be combined with oils to clog pores. Exfoliation also helps to improve surface textures of problem areas, and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.

Combining the three actions of exfoliating, cleansing, and drying CONCEPT:CLEAN productshelp to bring extra oily problem skin under control. When hydration is also needed, add products from the MARK LEES Signature System as necessary to supplement the CONCEPT:CLEAN regimen.

Go to Our Problem Skin Treatment Instructions